Jeweller’s art

We have fewer written records about the appearance of town residents, but they are supplemented by archaeological evidence. The representatives of wealthy families were known to have their clothes decorated with bands made of gold-thread fabric. At the same time, numerous findings of jewellery (rings, bracelets, pendants) made of non-ferrous metals, glass, and amber are a vivid tale about the common likes of female town residents from different social circles.

Women’s jewellery is one of the goods, actively traded with other towns and countries in the Middle Ages. The skills of the jewellers of those times were significantly higher than those of their counterparts in Western European countries. They were aware of the oldest artistic methods for processing non-ferrous and noble metals, including copper, silver, and gold.

Temple rings were among the most favourite jewellery items of women in the princely times. Bands and straps were integral supplements to temple rings. These made their owners more feminine, attractive, and highlighted their unique personality. Temple rings were made of gold, silver, copper, and bronze.

In addition, lunnytsi [crescent pendants], women’s necklaces, were highly popular. These were made in the shape of a crescent moon with horns pointing downwards. Lunnytsia pendants were widespread among female residents of towns in the Middle Ages. They are found in the territories of northern, central, and southern Europe. In the entire territory of ancient Rus, they were common since the 10th century. The manufacture of these pendants from copper and lead-tin alloys using casting moulds satisfied mass demand and was therefore intended primarily for the internal market. A vivid confirmation of this fact is evident in numerous discoveries of lunnytsia pendants in the territory of the chronicle towns (Plisnesk, Zvenyhorod, Terebovlia). Lunnytsias were decorative items, worn either separately or as part of necklaces, for instance, in combination with glass beads and metal pendants of various types.

Remarkable, but not common, findings are neck hryvnas, which are metallic hoops worn as necklaces. Bronze, white metal, and silver were used as materials for them. Similar to bracelets, hryvnas were made of smooth wire. The decorations on them were either absent or rather primitive. The ornament was made by stamping – geometric, circular, or zigzag line cuttings.

Among the creations of the craftsmen were pendants-amulets in the shape of miniature household items and weapons. The craftsman gave them the form of a spoon, an axe, or a sword scabbards. These served as protective charms and were worn by both women and men.

The most massive types of women’s decorations were glass bracelets and beads. The latter were made of various materials, including amber, glass, stone, and precious metals, and used as items of clothing and jewellery. The archaeological discoveries evidence the high skills of jewellers who created intricate decorations, including unique necklaces with spherical beads, covered with images of animals and birds, as well as necklaces made of amber, which was believed to have healing powers.

Generally, the collections of glass beads from the princely towns are most numerous (over a thousand items) and varied both in the shape of the goods and their colour and decoration. It was the most common type of decoration for female residents of the town.

A considerable amount of Byzantine glass was also brought to the princely towns, including beads or bracelets, pendants or icon lamps, which could serve as models for local craftsmen to imitate.

Jewellers of the princely times, who manufactured goods for different population strata, used a variety of materials and techniques. A decoration was used not only to highlight the status of its owner, but also had a sacral significance, helping a person to live and accompanying them to the other world.